a condition where some or all of the incident wave energy is trapped and flows along a wall. For solitary waves approaching a vertical wall with incident angle ai $ 45o (angle between direction of wave approach and the normal to the wall) a portion of the wave energy becomes trapped and flows along the wall. For ai $ 70o all of the incident energy is trapped and flows along the wall, with increasing water height down wave. Syn: Mach-stem reflection/trapping.
marginal sea coasts
coasts that develop along the shores of seas enclosed by continents and island arcs. Typically they are hilly, have wide shelves, limited wave fetch, and large deltas.
a process in which the state of a system at time t(n) depends in part on the state of the system at time t(n-1). AThe very nature of their development gives coastlines a Markovian property - that is, their present features are dependent upon the land forms that preceded them as well as the process that formed them@ (Inman & Nordstrom, 1971).
mean high water (MHW)
arithmetic mean of all high water heights observed over a 19.7 year interval (National Tidal Datum Epoch).
mean sea level (MSL)
arithmetic mean of hourly heights observed over a 19.7 year interval (National Tidal Datum Epoch).