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Coastal Morphology Group • Scripps Institution of Oceanography


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Beach as 1st Responder

Dropcap Sand beaches are "first responders" to storm waves.
In Coastal Basics we showed how the beach adjusts to wave energy -



Up arrow Comparison of summer vs. winter equilibrium beach profiles. Offshore sand moves landward forming wider beaches during summer. This pattern reverses in the winter. Under equilibrium conditions, sand seaward of the closure depth is not involved in seasonal sand movement.
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These seasonal equilibrium profiles are created as the sand dissipates wave energy.
Without sand on the beach, wave energy cuts the platform and erodes the sea cliffs.



Consequently, the best protection for the coast and cliffs is a wide, sandy beach.


Beach at Torrey Pines in the summer - full of sand.
Torrey Pines State Reserve
Between Del Mar and La Jolla, California.

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Beach at Torrey Pines in the winter - sand is gone and only cobbles are visible.
Torrey Pines State Reserve
Between Del Mar and La Jolla, California.

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Beach at La Jolla Shores in the summer - beach is sandy.
La Jolla Shores - La Jolla, California.
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Up arrowSummer
Sand beaches are built by low waves moving sand onshore and by currents bringing sand from upcoast.

 
Beach at La Jolla Shores in the winter - beach is sandy but areas of cobbles are exposed.
La Jolla Shores - La Jolla, California.
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Up arrowWinter
High waves from winter storms move sand offshore and expose cobbles on the platform.

   Seasonal differences in beaches located within the Oceanside littoral cell.
   Photographer - Pat Masters. Images used with permission.




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Coastal Morphology Group • Scripps Institution of Oceanography


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